And then there were three

November 15-17.

Our group disbands, a bit sadly, in dribs and drabs. Ron, my tent-mate on trek (thanks for putting up with that, Ron) leaves us in Paro to head eastwards back to Wisconsin, Chris(tine) leaves us Thursday morning for Winchester, and late Thursday afternoon Sue from Twickenham and the three Scottish lassies also depart Kathmandu. Which leaves three of us staying till Saturday.

Hannah and Nicky have decided to join me on a day trek on Friday into the Kathmandu Valley, which turns out well because (a) they're good company, and (b) it dilutes the faintly dislikable guide. We head up to a high point at Nagarkot, and walk 4 hours mainly downhill in a big arc. Above the pollution haze over Kathmandu the views of the Himalayas are awesome, the day is pin-sharp and the mountains much closer than in Bhutan. We end the day in Baktapur, well-preserved medieval town (maybe what Kathmandu was once more like?) though also inevitably lots of tourists.

(Almost) as memorable is real Italian pizza and great cappuccino (though any rough approximation probably would be after a month) at 'Fire & Ice' in Kathmandu. This knocks off two trivial cravings - others being:

- Brushing teeth under a tap

- Wine (Aussie red and NZ white would do just nicely)

- Sandwich - preferably from Pret

- Any meal without rice in it

Saturday midday we leave Kathmandu. The plane is late and by the time it leaves the sun is starting to set, suddenly washing the still-clear mountains in variously pink, orange, red. Before heading to Calcutta the plane does a lap of honour over the city - as the sun goes down the colour moves up the mountains to their tips until they are all just silent grey, then we head south and they are gone.

A month out, South Asia has been amazing, full-on, sensory overload, beyond any expectations I could reasonably have had. Not coming back sometime isn't an option.